Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Another gorgeous day in Bavaria


Today we spent another day at the Kelheim Museum, Pete reviewing the pottery from the Late Iron Age (about 100 BC), and me looking at selected pottery sherds and trying to identify colors as best I could from a series of color cards (Munsell color). Although I have a pretty good eye for color, it's amazingly difficult to match colors on paper to color on pottery. It was really interesting - there were times when I could easily make the connection, and other times when there was just nothing EXACTLY right! But, I hope that what I could do was useful. The pottery is so interesting - and very beautiful in many ways. During this time there were no glazes, but some (very little) of it was "painted." I'm not sure what the "paint" was - it may have been a slip of another kind of clay or it might have been some kind of plant pigment made into a "paint." In addition to color from paint, there are also color changes from firing - firing at the time of manufacture, or possibly when the vessel was put into the fire later for cooking, or something. This is all MY conjecture - I haven't asked Peter, because I know he wouldn't want me to present something that is his professional view (like I can't post any pictures of the sherds with the color cards I used.....sorry....or any pictures of The Professor!!) Anyway, in addition to the color variations, the pot sherds have incised lines of various kinds - really quite delightful and charming.

So, anyway, we've been getting up about 6 in the morning, breakfasting about 6:45, and then about 7:45 driving off to Kelheim for our day's "work." Mostly, I've been reading a novel on my Kindle (Sharon Penfield's "The Sunne in Splendor" - a terrific historical novel about the War of the Roses), then looking at pottery sherds and recording color variations, while Peter does whatever he does with the pottery. Haven't a CLUE what that is!!! About noon we break for lunch, walk over to a little bakery and get buns and salad to eat (at stand-up tables, which I'm sure Nat and Kitty will remember from their visits to Germany), go for a walk for about half and hour (Nick and Chris will recall this), then get coffee (for P) and tea (for me), and go back to the museum office for a few more hours of "work." Then, about 3:30 or so, we break for the day, straighten up our work area, and drive back to Regenburg (where we are now), and Peter takes a nap while I write this blog. Now we are going to go out and get some dinner. Like Nat's grandparents, we buy our beer and wine in the grocery store, and don't buy it at the restaurant, so we actually don't have very big dinner bills.

The Befreiungshalle seen from the excavation site

Kelheim today 2

The 2 previous pictures are of the site of the 1987-1994 excavations, and the hillside overlooking the excavation. One of the 2 little peaked houses in the midst of the many larger dwellings is the little cottage that Pete, Chris, Nick and I lived the first year of the excavation. That was the year that Nat and Lev lived with the team in the "Turkenheim" down near the Hochst chemical plant. Now the Hochst is Kelheim Fibres, and the Turkenheim has disappeared! It's very nostalgic being back here in Kelheim - I was remembering how Nat's friend (was it Howard?) stayed at the nearby Gasthaus, but everyone thought he snuck back and stayed at the Turkenheim (I'm wondering why ANYONE would think that given the abysmal conditions there); I washed our clothes by hand in a bucket up at the little house, and got blisters on my knuckles trying to scrub the loess out of blue jeans. How Nick's ended up standing up stiffly in the back of the van because they had got so muddy and been left there with the finds! Also, that was the year that the little "siebenschlafer" got into our bathroom, and we had no clue what that little mouse with the huge ears was! We stuffed towels along the door to Nick and Chris's bedroom, and left the house door open opposite the bathroom. Thank goodness, the little creature must have scurried out before dawn, because he was gone when we got up in the morning.

Kelheim today


Monday, January 11, 2010

Nearly 15 years!


It's hard to believe that it's been nearly 15 years since my last visit to Germany, and that it was nearly 22 years ago that we first came to Kelheim! The summer of 1987 was the first excavation here, the year we returned to Germany after Chris was so sick in 1983, and the year that Nat and Lev joined the excavation team as part of their highschool graduation adventure! And, back in 1995 was the year we spent most of the summer in Europe, when Chris was almost 15, Nick was 12, and the first year we went to Finland.

On this visit I find it curious that I feel so comfortable being here. Landing Munich yesterday was actually like coming home. Even the drive up here to Regensburg from Munich on the Autobahn was pleasant, despite the snow.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Sunday, January 10, 2010


Snow on the fields near Munich, as seen from the Autobahn.

Saturday, January 9, 2010